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Last Updated: 8/31/2009 9:44:44 AM
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The Gyros and Kabob House provides a medley of cultural dishes with an atmosphere to match, including intricate tapestries and exotic trinkets.

Gyros and Kabob House: Best ethnic cuisine

Leah Gernetzke
The Pointer
lgern177@uwsp.edu

Walking in downtown Stevens Point in late January is kind of like a sadistic game of hide-and-go seek with the cold—and cold, that inexorably cunning fiend of winter, wraps itself ubiquitously around corners and under leaky doors, vanquishing the smallest vestige of warmth and settling into creaky bones and staircases. Indisputably, no one wins against this formidable element.

But even in the most hostile of wars or most inhospitable conditions, havens still exist where harsh discomfort gives way to cathartic ambiance. With its colorful décor that contrasts so brilliantly with the monochromatic winter blues, the Gyros and Kabob House just might be one of those places.

The restaurant’s owner, Baback, who was previously an education professor at the University of Wisconsin-Stevens Point, said opening it three years ago was a risk.

“I wanted to have something different and diverse in town, someplace where people would like to eat out,” he said. “I think it’s turned out pretty well so far.”

Not only does the colorful interior of the restaurant beckon to those who value aesthetics, it’s also quite comfortable for customers who venture to sit on what is most likely one of Stevens Point’s only dining areas not elevated above floor level. For less than intrepid customers, not to worry, as carpeting and cushions with intricate designs evocative of the Ottoman Empire are plentiful.

Draped fabric also enshrouds the dining area, lending an ideal atmosphere for the belly dancing events that are sometimes held here on Saturday nights.

“I like the atmosphere of it,” said Katrina Mijal, a frequent patron. “It’s one of my favorite restaurants because of the look of it and the feel when you go there.“

However, ambiance with an exotic vibe is not all the restaurant has to offer. Of course, the Gyros and Kabob House’s array of ethnic dishes from different Mediterranean and Middle Eastern areas singularly grabs customers’ attentions. The menu has also recently expanded to include pastas, sandwiches, organic ingredients and options to accommodate vegetarians and vegans.

“I really like their gyros; they’re my favorite,” said Stacey Lilla, a customer at the restaurant. “They’re big, and you get a lot for your money. And the cucumber sauce is the best. “

Each dish on the menu also has a traditional name conveniently translated into English, so those who don’t happen to speak any languages endemic to the Middle East or Mediterranean can still know that not only is Babaganoosh, for instance, a fun tongue twister, but also a delicious and healthy eggplant dip.

Baback, who does most of the cooking, said although the most popular item is the gyro, he is partial to the spinach pie, or Spanikopita.

Above all, though, he said he doesn’t care what customers, who are largely college students, order as long as they enjoy the food.

“I really enjoy seeing people appreciate food, appreciate the effort I put into it and appreciate that we have something different in this town finally,” he said.



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